whoosh. what a weekend. my head is spinning. spinning. spinning.
surf was GREAT. good lord.
Te Arai was idyllic. literally paradise.
wait wait. graduation on Friday night which was awesome, ceremonious, moving.
i felt proud. Of all of us. It was quite a thing. all the heads of faculty did wonderful rambling talks about dreams, the power of intention, our responsibilities in the world.
wonderful muscial interludes, didgeridoo and flamenco guitar together!!!
and then we went out, had dinner, got drunk danced!!!
I must claim responsibility for getting whole clubs on the dancefloor. GOd put me here to not only bring healing, but dancing, to the people, and I felt I met my task with enthusiasm and pizazz.
Pizazz is one of the Holograms. For those who know.
okay rambles. monday. arrhrhrhghghgh.
We slept til like, 11am and the fun of mulching around all day together trying to get away we ended up at Te Arai about 2pm. Surf was fucking awesome. what can i say. 2-3 foot, clean, offshore. couple of breaks. mean rip round the point. the kind of waves, that sitting here, remembering them, brings a longing ache to my throat.
We had a rad surf, everyone in the waters pretty happy cuz the waves are so good. GOod buzz.
Me and P catch a wave TOGETHER!!! it's stupidly rad and i laugh my head off on my board cuz of how cool it is to be riding parallel on a wave with my beautiful boy.
that called for a double high five later. yes may there be many many more.
I'm a bit gutted with myself cuz of being so tired go in real early. We switch boards cuz the aqua wave slayer is unbeatable and i head in w P's 7.9ft'er.
I clean off, dress. eat a killer smoked fish on focaccia s/wich and watch piet surf as th sun sinks.
sunrise is exceptional. colours line the sky and faze into each other without separation, lemon yellow, lime green, turquoise, lilac, peach, pink, china blue, and white clouds that burst and rumble like puffs of steam from a train engine and the suns last rays catch electric light on the clouds and right high up in the sky on the silver moon 3/4 full and shining like a chink of diamond.

It gets cold and i have to get into the car and put the heater on. i doze and read my book.
one by one everyone leaves the water except P. finally with the last slither of light left in the sky, P comes in, wide eyed adn euphoric. A magical magical evening for sure.
tired and relaxed drive home and crash.

Sunday is raining, the perfect day to stay in bed all day and watch dvds on the laptop but we check the surf adn it looks like its' going off out west so whats a girl and a boy to do!? you know it.
we hadn't even taken the boards off the roof so no sweat, eggs toast and coffee and we're back on the road.
Pihas pretty small actually, and its dumping. and high tide aint til 8pm. ahhh well, you get what you get. i'm still keen to be in the sea. wet bikini on, wet wetsuit on. wax up. into the roar.
The skies are grey, but big and open, not oppressive, and it's keeping the warmth in. and as such the beach is almost empty, a few people here and there, and it's quiet. it's really just surfers. a couple or two. one tourist. few kids on skateboards adn BMXs.

it's all about picking your spot ahy. first we head straight out the middle. piet goes off to back line. i try catching that middle break over by lions rock but it's bullshit. dump dump dump.
even the boogie boardesr with fins are finding it hard to get out.
you know that lefthander that barrells in the pocket over the otherside? i decide it's time for me and that left hander to meet. paddle the WHOLE length of piha agaisnt numerous rips. get over left and start trying to head out. adn i try for at least half an hour. comes a moment when i yell at the sky and am near tears with frustration, if i can't get out, i can't surf, I am like COME ONNNNNNN. yelling up to god up there in the sky. then god whispers something i don't catch which makes me think: whats teh lesson here? MUST be perserverance. its either head in, or keep heading out. not much choice then have i? not going in.
so i battle on out and make it out to back line, halelujah!
jesus these waves are fat. and they build quick. reckon it's 4-5 sometimes. waves come that i am afraid of and SO relieved to go THROUGH them. feeling bad, but glad not to be the people three meters back from me getting dumped on. i pick one, times right, push, paddle and catchit and i'm racing nose first down the face of it, see the nose hit the water, and hear the thwack of the wave hitting my body, and my body hitting the water, knocking all the air out of me.
it match sticks me. i hold my breath and wait.
when i pop up theres a dude looking at me with the widest eyes, he obviously sore it all and is kinda surprised i'm fine i think. we grin. i'm spluttering and coughing. head back out.
i catch two little ones on the way back out and ride them, i'm starting to turn and steer teh board a bit. radness. and i stand. rad.
paddle out again, can see my boy all this time,his boards too small for these freakin sledgehammers, he catches them but his board wo'nt stay underneath him, i watch him disappear into countless frothing jaws. we catch each others eyes periodically and grin. he waves me over sometimes, but i'm happy here.
the waves grow. it goes more and mroe offshore. but it's getting cold. and i've got to get to waiheke later.
i catch another mountain. jesus lord. it builds like it must be two meters THICK and then rises in half a second and snaps in half. again i get inhilated. this time the board gets me real good on the top of my head. i'm under the surf trying to find my head with my hands for protection.
that'll do me. i was brave. i made it out. i was scared. i faced it. i caught a couple. thats me.
P reads my mind and we meet up in the wash. he's getting cold and the boards not really working and we call it a day.
head in get hot chips and bail home.

i learnt some good lessons this weekend that i need to keep learning.
1)hangovers steal surfing from you
2)just keep going

happy elves.
i move this weekend. helalujah. no more rats in the roof. no more bed i don't even fit diagonally on. no more 3hours driving every day. and the rest.
happy happy happy.
:)