hmmm
how'm i gonna find time to write this blog now.
The weekends events were pressed together like a squid in a bread bag. Only two days to do things now! And do things means surf, of course.

Sunday, surf should've been good but was messy if you ask me, didn't touch backline.
Pants went out, and Holland was there too, but no one was really stoking out.
Disturbed was I, to find, that after two weeks practically no surfing, I'd lost the knack of standing up. Fuckbuggershitballspantstitsandcunts.

I came out of the water disheartened and was thinking of telling you all that I was no longer a surfer. Sure, I have a wetsuit and a board, and i go into the water wearing one and attached to the other. But thats not surfing. ahy bro.

Saturday cleaned up just a little and for some reason the rip wasn't so strong, this meant i could surf the shore break when the waves reformed without expending all my energy paddling across the goddam rip. Was just different, didn't feel worried bout the waves at all, went out in the middle too where there was a small but decent little right hander.
There was a school or something, a handful of younger girls being instructed by a dude. Made me feel really safe, like if that eleven year old is happy to drift into that rip, how bad can it be?
Do i sound very chicken? It's all relative.
Took me all session to get back on my feet for real. in a three step process though, push, kneel, stand.
Easter next weekend! yaaaaay. get the standing up in one go thing back i reckon.
Met a friend of a friend, Nic, another naturopath, who lives at piha so she can learn to surf.
Effin ahy girl.
She said come out for easter lets get surfing.
Won't say no to that.

J came out and took pics of Piha and me, so I'll get to see how ridiculous this all looks for the first time.
Radness.
I have other stories! About my reunion with the people I know from PLAYCENTRE!!!!
but not this morning, not time.
yaaaay! monday.
I love mondays.
Ka kite ano.