hello daniel, nice going winning the nationals

It's funny, one day you're watching Daniel Kereopa win the nationals on highlights on the late news, the next day, he surfs past you at Piha and people are taking photo's of him, photo's you're probably in the background of.
And he looks just like he does on tele. And he surfed onto the SAND and stood up and walked in.
Like some sorta surfing superhero. ha ha.

After wanting badly to go out for three days and not being able to, i'm SO glad i went out today. Even with this hangover and super duper tired.

Conditions were so different, I've never surfed in it when it's been like that before.
There were two breaks, the one out the back that the comp was on, and the little shore break right down in front near the rocks on the very left of piha. It was the choicest little wave. The swell picked up real quick and did these fat, short little waves and mostly barrels that you could really get long rides out of. Not me, I couldn't. Lots did though.
And it was so shallow. You could stand shoulder deep, and catch them from there.
I didn't catch that much. But it doesn't mean anything it was a beautiful fucking day and i'm stoked out.

There were these young dudes out there with the concentrated expressions that I've only ever seen on athletes, and an air of arrogance that cannot be feigned and only comes with mastery.
These guys were so fucking good. They were doing aerial this and that, flips and stuff. There was a dude on the beach taking photo's the whole time. I kept thinking maybe they're trying to get 'noticed'. like by sponsors or something.

he he he he. so i wade out, paddle paddle. Everytime i go out i have to give myself this little pep talk, it's dumb and i shouldn't be telling you but i have to say: check your ego. take it off and leave it in the car. you're not good at this, but you have every right to try. you're here for you. not to look good. So just do it, stop worrying that everyone will hate you for being on there wave.
But today the guy on the mike mc'ing the comp is saying to the whole of piha "will the 'homo's' and 'cock's' riding long boards in teh competition area get out of the water."

So i'm like, holy shit is that ME.
This is worse than getting told off at assembly!!!!!

So i asked these young dudes if THEY were in the competition and they're like: nah.
It was EVERYTHING they could do to say one word to me.
a girl? and i suck?
Just don't mess with their waves i guess.
I'm not about that really.
I'm about fun for all.
Nah but they were sweet as.
But oh my god this guy on the mike. talk about ruining the vibe at the beach.
Drunken MC's to the max.
some ex national surfer or something. some dudes shouldn't be given mikes.
cock, and homo, sound REALLY bad amplified.
there were CHILDREN there you know? Babies.
you don't say cock in front of babies.
and he kept calling the female surfers 'lovely lovely ladies'.
and saying 'the flowers are in bloom'
Cock.
they're the national fucking champs and he can't stop talking about them like prospects at a bar.
ew grosse he was seedy.
anyway thats all by the by cuz the surf was mint. the light was really white and the sea very shiny and all so painfully beautiful as always.
took me awhile to figure out how to catch them, took me nearly all day actually, but finally i got it. they didn't have much power so you had to get right down the front of your board but ARCH back so you didn't get tipped off.
I got it. got a few rides. oooo theres nothign better. theres nothing better.
Many, many body surfs in trailing board behind me too. which cracks me up.

i'm over surfing hungover though ahy it sucks.
i was out about an hour and a half which is good going i guess, but by the end i can barely push up onto my arms let alone my feet. need more energy. less booze.
yeah right.

lorens 21st last night. 21st's!!!! i'm so ooooolllllddd. i just got wrinkly being at that 21st i swear.
it was great though. bar tab lasted til the end which is practically unheard of.
there was speeches, me of course, dancing, me of course, and and singing. guess who.

and now tonight dans house warming and im' BEYOND tired. i'm so tired i couldn't sleep.
do you know that tired? the tired that hurts? that tired.
but the theme is blue which is the best ever them because a)it's my favourite colour and b)i look great it blue and c)it's really easy to dress up for.
and so yeah i should be dressing up in blue, not writing this blog.

wonder what the weathers doing tomorrow....