I'm Back!

I'm back. What can I say.
After watching the surf documentary Bra Boys on Friday and knowing that the surf was going to be great for the first time in MONTHS, i pried myself from piets side and warm cave of goodness to go out to Piha for the first time in months.
High tide was 9.48am which was approximately what time I got there. I tell you it was fun and a relief just to be out on open roads, driving fast, not in bumper to bumper traffic. I love the drive to the waitaks.
So the beach was deserted but for surfers, maybe 20 total.
It didn't feel that cold, out of the water, infact, i was wearing a singlet in the car.
It was cloudy but there was plenty of blue sky too, that sun just needed an inch of encouragement and i'm sure we would've had a sunny day.
So, feeling like I had completely forgotten everything, infact, wondering if i still knew how to unzip my board bag and get into my wetsuit, it'd been that long. I got myself already.
I needed more wax and forgot to bring some, thats due to the infrequency of the winter surfing.
Oh well then, I thought, it can just be what it is, a hodge podge ramshackle stint in the water, a reintroduction, whatever it will be will be nice.
Strap on ankel in she goes. Yup it was really cold. I was expecting it though. It wsan't quite as biting as I thought it would be. As the cold sea seeped in through the knee pads of my wetsuit a gasped.
onto board and paddling! yaaaay! oh see i like every part of surfing, driving there, looking at the waves, putting on suit, paddling on board... so it was instantly gratifying.

ooooo the conditions were almost perfect. it was 2-3 ft, mostly 2, with the odd 3ft, completely offshore with really clean lines. the rip was a pleasant challenge and nothing to speak of. god it wsa JUST my favourite type of surf. SO out i paddled, i could get out, which says alot about the strength of the swell. i didn't go out to back line, no need. 2-3ft'rs were everywhere, i could hardly resist turning around and catching everysingle wave.

All the stuff about wave picking etc was there.. somewhere, faintly whispering to me. but the surf was so good i kinda just lucked it.
Did i catch waves?
A couple.
Did i stand up?
Nope. I only got onto my left knee and my right foot. three or four times. the last time i did it i say angrily to myeslf in the water NO KNEES! I think i'm mimicing pieter, or someone, saying, just don't even go there, knees doesn't lead to feet. just get onto your feet.
technically i'm useless again, but in that way that you know it will come flooding back when you spend a day or two at it. and partly because the cold was making me weak.

So i paddled around alot telling myself it was good exercise. loving the burn in my shoulders, and the pull on my obliques as i glide forward with each stroke. i love the water. i love feeling strong in the water. i'm sure we came from the sea because it is so natural and peaceful movement.

I'm alone on the waves, black seal like figures of surfers in suits, booties, caps, bob up and down off in the surf a way down. Everythings quiet, just the sea swoosh roar swoosh roar.
no pedestrians, no life guards, no screams of playful children, no motors... winter has definite benfits.

the cliffs are rich dark green plummage on grey and brown, very dark, and the light is really low and the sky is washed out granite blue. when the sun just winks out from behind the clouds the light is LIFE GIVING. but it doesn't really last, it passes.

It is cold, it is very cold. I don't sit up on the board cuz you need to be in the water to avoid the wind chill. My face is cold and my lips rubbery, i slap them together and go PAH! PAH! and stretch my face to keep it alive and moving, everyones face is bright red or purple.
My hands are cramping up, but thats okay, still good paddles.
But my feet are stinging. stinging. stinging.
I tell myself im a pussy and stay in longer.
probably about 45 minutes and then i've pushed it as far as i can and i'm too cold and i drift in to shore. by which time i can hardly paddle or kick and am just gliding. The waves seem so gentle and nurturing. Piha has so many personalities and is subject to change, just like a scorpion woman like me. Maybe thats why I never mind it.

What could be considered an unsatisfying surf by others was bliss for me.
At one point i just lie down on my board, stop paddling and close my eyes, and feel the rolling of the sea. Everything flows into each other, the sea lulls up and moves the wind the wind carves into the sea, and me between lulling in their peaceful love making. The trees echo this plump, circular dancing, swaying drunkenly, leaning down on us.

When i see my feet come out of the sea i feel justified in getting out, they are the white of white fish flesh, almost transparent. bloodless! numb.
With the air on my skin it is bullshit cold. I scurry to pull off my wetty and get straight into my clothes.
In the car i blast the heater as hot as it goes on my feet.
Myhead is swooning with the contraction of cold.
I scald the skin on my feet heating them in the car.

When i get home, i am greeted by warm loving pieter and a hot shower. i am calm and good, the only way i can be, for the first time in months.